Textile in Rajasthan

May 31, 2020

Hello everyone!

As we mentioned at 1st blog, India is vast and diverse in culture by north, south, east, west.

Handicrafts have their own characteristics in each region. Interested in textiles from all across the country, we would like to share our knowledge about Indian textile based on the experience we had during our travel and visit the artisans.

Let’s start with our beloved Jaipur and Rajasthan textiles.

Hand Block Print

Needless to say, this is a famous print of Jaipur. Basic process of curving woodblock to create pattern, pressing it on fabric has been around for more than 1800 years. However Jaipur’s block print flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries when East Indian company started to export this textile to various parts of Europe and became one of their major exports.

This is also called Sanganeri print because there are many workshops in the town of Sanganer on the outskirts of Jaipur. In the suburban town called Bagru, block print using indigo, other natural dye, and mud is the popular method, and is called bagru print.

The more detailed and vivid the pattern is, the more blocks used and time spent in a single print.

Wooden Block
Indigo Dabu (Mud Resist) Block Print

Tie and Dye

Tie & Dye process in which colors are applied while knotting and folding cloth into various shapes. The tie & dye technique used in Japanese kimono is said to have been transmitted all the way from India in ancient time.

Knotting for Bandani

While there are various characteristics on every region, there are two types of tie & dye which are typical to Rajasthan. The one in which a pattern is made by knotting several points with a thread is called “bandani”, the other in a wave pattern is called Leheria. Bandani are also popular in other parts of India, but Rajasthan ones are characterized by large knots. The wave-shaped Reheria is used not only in women sari but also in men’s turban in Rajasthan.

Leheria Preparation
Leheria on Silk Cotton

Kota Doria

Kota doria started in the 17th – 18th century in Kota, a small town in Rajasthan. It features a fine checkered weave pattern, and is usually woven tight on silk and cotton. Originally made to be dedicated to Kota’s princess, Kota doria that allows air to pass through the check gaps is perfect for the arid Rajasthan climate and is now commonly used.

Kota Doria


Balmer, a town near Pakistan on the western end of the state, hardly has large factories with facilities, rather local representatives give instructions on patterns, provide materials such as threads and fabrics to each family, with which housewives can work during their free time from household. They work at home or sometimes neighborhood gatherings and bring them to the representatives. The applique is basically is made by two types of white cloth. The cut out design part of the thick fabric is sewn together with the thin fabric so that the pattern is shown through from the thin part. In addition, simple kantha (running stitch) fabrics are also made in this area.

Various Khadi

Khadi, a general term to explain hand-spun hand-woven fabric, is woven in various parts of India. In Rajasthan, thick khadi with relatively thick threads are made. Materials are usually cotton, wool, or linen. The thicker threads are better suited for this dry area than the finer threads that are better suited for the humid region such as Bengal. In addition, there are many places where weaving machines are 2 meters or more in width, which we do not often see elsewhere.

The more discoveries you encounter, the more curiosity you have. The journey of textile is endless.









絞り染め (tie & dye)










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